wave journal of a surfer girl: More Closet Cleaning

11 September 2008

More Closet Cleaning

Now that my funshape's gone to a better place where it will not be relegated to wall art, its never-used travel boardbag is just taking up space. See it for sale on Craigslist: Prolite Rhino Travel Longboard/Funshape Surfboard Bag 7'6"

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Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!