23 September 2008

Linda Mar, 23 September 2008

Dawn is coming later and later these days; the street lights were still glowing as S and I crested the hill above Linda Mar beach. It took some dragging to get my ass out of bed this morning, even if it wasn't super early. But I had extra motivation, since I planned to meet up with T and her friend L2, who pulled into the parking lot right after I zipped up my wetsuit. L2 had her red longboard, I brought my orange fish, and T had her shortboard, but we all started out on the south end.

With my headstart, I had to wait a bit for them to reach the lineup, and it was c-c-c-old. Air only 50 degrees with a light breeze, water cool though not freezing yet - summer's over, baby. I was hoping to wring a few more sessions out of my old 4/3, but it's time to break in the new one now.

The waves on the south end were on the moundy side, with the tide filling in to high, so while L2 headed farther down to Boatdocks, T and I decided to paddle north of the bathhouse, where we'd seen a couple decent shoulders from the parking lot. Unfortunately, the waves there were also generally moundy, just bigger. T suggested sitting farther in just as another head-high closeout dumped on the inside with a crash of spray. Mmm, nooo. Instead we paddled back south to near our original spot - hey, all that paddling's good exercise, and the only workout I'll get today - preferring to sit inside of smaller waves and take less of a beating. Oh, if only we hadn't fallen into grass-is-greener syndrome. It was a better spot, but I was nearly out of time. A few promising ones came my way, close but no cigar, and then it was time to leave. As I paddled for shore, a wave broke behind me and I popped up in the whitewater, just to ride something. But it's always a tricky maneauver on a shorter board due to its inherent instability and the turbulence, so I wasn't surprised when I fell. Lucky T caught the next one and rode it a little past me, then went back out for one more.

As I was changing by my MINI, a dripping longboarder started doing the same at his van in the next spot. He was wearing a Matuse wetsuit, which I'd read is intriguingly made from limestone. It's supposed to be warmer, lighter, and more flexible than a standard neoprene suit, so I asked him about it. He started raving that it's all of the above, plus it dries in only 2 hours. Sounds awesome (though no doubt expensive), but as I predicted, they don't make them in my size. Even worse, Matuse apparently doesn't realize women surf, since they only make wetsuits for men. Dudes, get out of the office, head down to the nearest break, and count the women surfers - hello!

Stuck in traffic on the way out of town.


  1. Hi, it's funny how I just came across your blog recently, and now it turns out that I actually saw you walking down the beach in the distance at Lindy this morning. Your clowfish board is a dead giveaway! Wow, this morning really taught me firsthand why surfers dislike low-period waves. The faces looked big and all, but what a mess out there! And the fact I got in a really fun session on Sat at Pleasure Point where the wave breaks beautifully really made me aware of how junky the waves were. Anyway, thanks for your shortboard advice. I used the trusty ole LB today, but I'm excited to try out my newly purchased lightly used short stick as soon as the next decent swell hits.

    Thanks again for your advice. I'll have to check Montara out sometime soon!


  2. Yeah, they grow some fine waves down in Santa Cruz, that's why it's so friggin' crowded. Wait, Linda Mar's often junky and it's crowded too...

    Pretty soon I'll be switching from the Clownfish to my stealth red/white Xanadu Rocky. But if you happen see me, next time jog/paddle over and say hello!

  3. Hi, norcal surfer. Cool Blog!!

    I've commented on your site before.. I'm looking to make the trip to HMB next month during the Punkin Festivel and hope for a session or 2 while I'm up there.

    I look forward to paddeling out at the Jetty on Saturday morning and Linda Mar Sunday since I'll be staying in Pacifica on Saturday nite.

    I'd like to have someone with some local knowledge close by.

    Care to hang out?

    You can check out my session log at www.wannasurf.com

    user name: mefoto

    locations surfed: El Porto

    M. Elliot
    El Segundo, CA
    www.mefoto.com (website)
    mefoto@ix.netcom.com (email)

  4. Cool, Miguel, but that's like way too far in advance for me to plan on specific surf spots (plus I prefer never to do Linda Mar on a weekend unless I get there at the dark crack o' dawn), but drop me a line closer to the date, surfergrrrl @ gmail.com. (Hey, Eric, that goes for you too, if you want some company in your transition to shortboarding.)