11 February 2008

Indicators, 11 February 2008

The last few days have been warm and sunny, and though we went to the beach on Saturday, I resigned myself to not surfing on the weekend because a zillion other people would be cluttering up the waves on such nice days in February. So I held off until a Monday afternoon, which may have been slightly less crowded. Looking from the cliff at the ant swarm below, I set my wave-count hopes low. But I did catch one wave, although I popped up with my feet too close together making for a micro-ride. But I did catch one wave! It felt good; it's been a while.

Since I caught that wave just after paddling out, I thought I'd hang in that spot to wait for more. After a few minutes I noticed there was a strong sideshore current pushing me away from the peak at a pretty good clip. If I'd been paying proper attention when I was looking from the cliff, I would've noticed the fish-swimming-upstream behavior of the crowd. So I joined the gang in near-constant paddling, but never found the sweet spot again.

Since the conditions were so fine, there were a lot of really good surfers out, including a pair riding the same board on a head-high wave, and a guy switching between surfing backwards and forwards. It was a fun show to watch.

To stave off the plague of nausea that's wrecked my last 3 sessions, I tried a triple-whammy: eating something, earplugs, and a pair of accupressure wristbands that are supposed to prevent seasickness. It didn't work 100% but it worked well enough, and I stayed out until the sun dropped low and I got too cold. I started paddling toward the stairs and got to ride a broken wave in on my belly, hands on the nose of the Xanadu, like some hotshot shortboarder ending a good session, yah!

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