24 February 2015

Today I...

saw a guy get barreled
used a rip current to get to the lineup
got pulled up over the falls and pummeled
was surprised to see four other girls shortboarders
practiced duck-diving over and over on my 5'4" Spitfire
via the Surfline cam
watched sea gulls fly and thought about their sky trails
enjoyed the still warm water and the sun on my face
rode one long sweeet left with turns to the inside
was sucked out past the pier by a rip current
and felt totally in the moment and alive!

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