saw a guy get barreled
used a rip current to get to the lineup
got pulled up over the falls and pummeled
was surprised to see four other girls shortboarders
practiced duck-diving over and over on my 5'4" Spitfire
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| via the Surfline cam |
enjoyed the still warm water and the sun on my face
rode one long sweeet left with turns to the inside
was sucked out past the pier by a rip current
and felt totally in the moment and alive!
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