I took my 5'4" fish out today for the first time in... I don't know how long, but it would be measured in months, not weeks. I've been riding 6'2" Rocket exclusively for quite a while.Feeling lazy, I locked my bike at the top of the bluff above Pumphouse and walked up the beach to Tourmaline where the surf was a bit smaller and less closed-outy. I'd forgotten how much easier it is to get out on and manage a smaller board, although I timed it perfectly anyway to make it to the lineup with dry hair.
The first wave I caught was a right that tried to give me a wedgie. Not sure exactly what happened - probably didn't turn fast enough - but I got swept off my feet at the bottom and toppled backward into onrushing whitewater. Refreshing.
I redeemed myself on the next several lefts and scored long rides. Although there was a little crowd as always, many weren't catching much. Then a couple of wave hogs arrived and took every bump they could, even if it meant nearly running into me. I think I snuck in one more ride before they left, although by then the wind was up and the high tide had dropped fast to lower than the nearly flat-bottomed fish likes. A SUPer paddled by and said, "You found Nemo!" which made me smile.
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