Big Ideas, Hot Air and Warm Water

Early this morning (but not early in the UK), Mpora Action Sports Magazine posted my latest piece, which they entitled Second-Class Waves And Sleazy Ads: Why Women Are Still Fighting For Equality In Action Sports. For the article, I was fortunate to be able to interview by email a couple of the current top women in professional surfing and skateboarding, Paige Hareb:

and Amelia Brodka*:

I'd worked all day Monday to finish the piece, and after it published, I went surfing.

A new southwest swell filled in and brought overhead waves to the La Jolla reefs. The water continues warm, and I'm still surfing in a 1-mil vest and my Seea leggings, with reef booties to protect against the cobblestones. I caught a really nice long left at Hennemans, and then a shorter right. The few guys out when I started had gone in, and I couldn't see my feet in the murky, silty water. Heck, I couldn't see my fingertips when I paddled. Despite the hot sunshine, it felt creepy sitting all alone in low-visibility water. I mean, a shark might take a nibble, just 'cause it couldn't see what the heck you were, right? In NorCal, the water visibility was never good and I should still be used to that, but...

Steve had paddled past Hennemans to Hairmos, and I decided I'd like some company. Maybe the water wasn't so muddy over there. It was a long paddle and I'd almost reached him when a set wave swung wide and I turned to catch it riding far to the inside. After another long paddle, we chatted a bit before he disappeared on the first wave of the next set. The only other dude near us took the next, and I got a later one.

The breeze was coming up in earnest, and the waves were getting a bit messy. It was hard to stay in position, and with the wind pushing me too deep, I barely made it over to the shoulder as another large set rolled through. Hennemans looked less lonely with a couple other surfers, so I trekked back over and rode a wave in. It wasn't even noon, but I was already stoked on the day.

*If you're in the San Diego area, mark your calendars for November 8th. That's the 3rd annual EXPOSURE women's skateboarding benefit event at the Encinitas YMCA. Amelia says "EXPOSURE is a step towards a 'solution.' It is a nonprofit that seeks to create more opportunities for women in skateboarding. The event offers free skate clinics, yoga clinics, amateur and pro vert and bowl events as well as autograph signings by both male and female skateboarders and surfers. EXPOSURE brings amateur and pro female skaters together to showcase their abilities and progress in an empowering environment." So come out to see some great skating and be sure to say "hi" to me at the Surfrider table.