then, yeah, it's time to go surfing, even if the slight swell bump is short-period windswell and my neck's still inexplicably troublesome and radiating a headache.
Due to the aforementioned neck issue, my wave choice was extra selective to weed out the too-frequent under head-high disorganized closeouts near Crystal Pier. Yet when a likely shoulder formed up, I had trouble getting into the softish rising-tide waves. Probably I should've brought my 6'2" Rocket instead of 5'4" Kat. I paddled for a bunch of promising waves but they slipped away, unridden.
It was roughly an hour (my watch is in a drawer since I stopped working for The Man) before I caught my first wave. By that time, I was getting a bit pissed off. Dammit, I would have a good ride! As I paddled for this right, my inner coach yelled encouragement: "Dig deep! Keep the nose down! Commit! Gooooo!" Finally I was up and riding.
Yeah!
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