"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
05 July 2014
The ocean was so glassy at dawn that it was like paddling across a mirror of the sky.
That was the high point of my session at Imperial Beach. Neither Christina nor I were feeling affinity for the south swell waves, which were overhead on sets and pitching hard into shallow water. I saw guys nearly barreled, and I saw guys eat it badly. The only wave I caught closed out immediately so I bailed off the back, but Kat was pulled over the falls, dragging me along. I surfaced in water barely over stomach high, with my hair full of sand. I took it as a warning and belly-rode to the beach - that was mildly fun - followed by Christina riding her only wave in. We did a 5-minute beach cleanup as we walked back, picking up Independence Day detritus, and Christina scored a bunch of toys for her boy.
That's two disappointing surfs in a row. I need some good waves! Rather looking forward to tomorrow's skate lesson on my new board; at least the concrete waves at the park will be as they ever are.