A pod of dolphins swam through the lineup as I walked out, and I waited in vain for them to return. I also waited in vain to ride a proper wave. The lulls were long and the waves too soft and mushy. Christina rode a few when I first arrived but eventually she had to do the paddle of shame in to the beach. Even longboarders were having trouble getting into waves - when they weren't hogging them. On my 5'2" Firewire, it was like trying to scrape marshmallow fluff from a nearly empty jar with a toothpick: frustrating and ultimately unsatisfying.
"The ocean stirs the heart, inspires the imagination and brings eternal joy to the soul." - Wyland
07 August 2014
Marshmallow Fluff on a Toothpick
Lack of surf and an inland Central California road trip kept me out of the water for the better part of a week, so I joined Christina for dawn patrol in Del Mar, sight unseen. There's a little south swell running which gave me hope, but if I'd waited to check the cam, I might've bailed like Nicole.
A pod of dolphins swam through the lineup as I walked out, and I waited in vain for them to return. I also waited in vain to ride a proper wave. The lulls were long and the waves too soft and mushy. Christina rode a few when I first arrived but eventually she had to do the paddle of shame in to the beach. Even longboarders were having trouble getting into waves - when they weren't hogging them. On my 5'2" Firewire, it was like trying to scrape marshmallow fluff from a nearly empty jar with a toothpick: frustrating and ultimately unsatisfying.
A pod of dolphins swam through the lineup as I walked out, and I waited in vain for them to return. I also waited in vain to ride a proper wave. The lulls were long and the waves too soft and mushy. Christina rode a few when I first arrived but eventually she had to do the paddle of shame in to the beach. Even longboarders were having trouble getting into waves - when they weren't hogging them. On my 5'2" Firewire, it was like trying to scrape marshmallow fluff from a nearly empty jar with a toothpick: frustrating and ultimately unsatisfying.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment