26 May 2014

Crossing Under

Determined to beat the holiday crowds this morning, I paddled out before 6 at my home break. Only two guys were in the water, including Jeff, who'd been out since 5:30.
David, the lone sponger of Crystal Pier
There was a lot of loose kelp floating about, and a surprisingly strong current given the small and inconsistent waves. When I wasn't paddling back toward the pier and the beach, I was pulling bits of kelp from my leash and flinging them away. The other dude, a longboarder, hoarded the pole position, but I rode a few waves before the masses started to arrive.
Jeff and David (lower left) and their many "friends" on the north side
As the main peak clotted up with surfers, I eyed empty waves breaking on the south side of Crystal Pier. I've been surfing the north side of the pier for about a year, but had never tried the south. I'm not sure exactly why, but paddle-battling on the north today wasn't appealing. I decided to cross under.
This guy paddled under a bit before I left, ending my solitude
On the other side, there was less current, less kelp, and no people. Although it took me a little while to figure out the peak, I soon got my best ride of the morning so far, an unexpected left that sent "shoot the pier!" flitting through my mind before I turned toward open water.
Wipeout imitates bird
I saw Jeff looking my way occasionally, but he stayed with the crowd. Jeff surfs better than me, catches more waves, and I noted how deep and fast he paddled into them. So on my next wave, I cranked it up a notch and got an ever better ride. I dropped in going right on the chest-high wave and as it seemed to fade, cut back left for the reform and rode it all the way to the beach, watching the bottom come up through translucent water. Stoked!

No comments:

Post a Comment