07 September 2011

Women Who Surf Mountains II

"I try never to be stopped by my fears." -Maya Gabeira 

Women are continuing to charge big waves alongside the boys. Keala Kennelly was freesurfing Teahupo'o on the weekend it was too big for the men's contest, and later paid her dues to the reef. Unfortunately the only video I can find is of a wipeout, though not the one on which she badly cut her face.

And check out this article on the inspiring Maya Gabeira, who was also tow-surfing Teahupo'o last week and had a couple close calls. She gets knocked down, but gets back up again and goes right back out.
Gabeira still remembers that day at Waimea, the first time she rode a truly big wave, one with a 25-foot face. "I was high for about 10 days afterward," she recalls. "I found my passion out there." But passion is a hungry thing; it has a way of making us crave, well, more passion. 
So true. I find mine on much smaller waves, but greatly admire the skill and courage of these women.


  1. I have often tried to imagine what it must look like from the surfer's position. I am good at imagining things but recognise I probably don't even get near it! What courage.

  2. There was an exhibit here a couple of years ago that had you looking out a 2nd floor window to imagine the drop. Still hard to comprehend.