06 September 2011

Coaching: Need for Speed (Hook/Sharks)

This morning I felt like I was doing more than my typical share of wiping out, and I collected a ridiculous amount of the Pacific Ocean in my sinuses to show for it. Sniffle. Plus a touch of whiplash and a bruise on my upper thigh from landing on my rail. I was a bit off my game. The south swell hasn't faded out completely, and was sending occasionally head-high waves through at the Hook. Barry and I started there and I caught one of those but stuck the nose at the bottom of the drop. It wasn't crowded yet but one guy was spewing anti-aloha, so we paddled over to Sharks for a more positive vibe.

Today's tips:
  • Take a last look at the wave before going. It's good to commit, but be ready to un-commit at the final moment, for example if I'm too deep. Then back off without coming off of the board, to be ready sooner for the next wave. 
  • Generate more paddling speed into the wave and and be quicker on the pop-up, cutting a third- to half-second. This will help in catching the smaller waves instead of stalling. 
  • After popping up, make a fast mid-face turn for down-the-line speed, then turn up and down on the wave. 
I caught a few other middling waves but pulled off one good ride where I felt the speed, dropping in, making a fast backside turn before the bottom and rocketing along the face, though I didn't get in much in the way of up-and-down before the lip grabbed and flipped me. Fun! I can see the potential. Now for the practice.

Barry also noted that I was slightly left on my takeoff which I need to correct. I hadn't realized I was doing it and it's good to have a coach to point out stuff like that.

Surfline: SSW groundswell continues to slowly ease while mixing with a small amount of NW-WNW swell wrap. Average breaks top out around waist high while the better southern hemi exposures still see fun size sets in the waist-chest occ. shoulder-head high range. Expect some long lulls with the larger waves on the inconsistent side. Light winds early with patchy, dense fog. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.3 ft at 14.8 s SW 72 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.7 s NW / WVHT: 4.6 ft / APD: 7.0 s / MWD: 227° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / WDIR: 330° / ATMP: 52.0° F / WTMP: 55.8° F. Tide: 3.5' rising to 4'.

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