17 September 2011

Extra Spin Cycle (Rachel's Point)

I wasn't expecting to surf today, but when the opportunity arose, I pounced on it. The Jetty was tiny so I met up with Luke and J-Bird at "Rachel's Point." The waves were shoulder- to head-high+ with just one or two other surfers in the water.
At this spot, there's a fine line between being (a) in the right position, (b) too far on the shoulder to get into the wave, and (c) too deep and getting rolled. The wave was also folding back on itself as it broke, adding to the difficulty level. Sadly, I couldn't find the sweet spot (a), although both of my buddies rode a couple nice long lefts on their longboards. To my credit and unlike prior sessions here, I wasn't erring on the side of caution (b), which meant I went through the spin cycle quite a few times (c). There was just one wave I felt that I caught at the right place, but I wasn't quick enough to my feet.
Luke and J-Bird heading out to the point
Tumbled to the inside again and feeling a bit frustrated, I caught outside whitewater which reformed into a fun little left with moguls, successfully navigated. I rode a few more like that, enjoying a sunny bonus surf with just my friends.

Surfline: Small NW swell and SSW swell mix is good for mainly 2-3'+ surf with occasional chest high+ sets at top spots. 5-11kt SW to WSW wind through the day. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 7.7 s NW 75 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 4.2 s WNW / WVHT: 6.2 ft / APD: 6.3 s / MWD: 324° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 6.2 ft / DPD: 8.0 s / WDIR: 330° / ATMP: 54.7° F / WTMP: 55.4° F. Tide: 3.5' rising to 4.5'.


  1. Called Ross' Cove, I believe. Fun wave, never crowded, but definitely a narrow zone for success.

    1. Ssh! It's a semi-secret.

      Have you surfed there much?