10 April 2011

A Small Infusion of Cold Stoke (HMB Jetty)

Small, cold, sparse and clean pretty much sums up dawn patrol this morning. I had the Jetty all to myself when I paddled out at dawn - too silly chicken to do the same at more remote Dunes - but was soon joined by a couple other surfers. There were long lulls between set waves and I kept mis-positioning, then trying to take off too late for some impressive wipeouts in the waist-high waves. On one such, I saw my 7'0" surfboard go vertical, nose-down straight into the shallows as the wave pitched, but fortunately no harm was done to either of us. Eventually I found the sweet spot and got a nice left, fading to the peak to extend the ride as the wave flattened and reformed into a right before petering out in thigh-deep water.
I rode a few more little 'uns and shivered. It was a cold wait between sets, with the air in the low 40s and the water in the low 50s. The swell perked up again when Luke arrived, and I caught a couple more before I had to leave, getting introduced to Dan and hearing Luke's brief review of Soul Surfer in between. I think I'll still wait for it on Netflix.
Can't beat starting the week off with a surf!

Surfline: Smaller surf on tap this morning as fading NW (290-315) wind/groundswell mixes with easing SSW (190-200) energy. Decent NW exposures and combo breaks see 3-4'+ waves. Expect light onshore wind out of the NW with generally semi-bump/crumbly conditions at the openly-exposed areas. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.6 ft at 10.0 s NW 30 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 4.2 s WNW / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 7.4 s / MWD: 312° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 5.9 ft / DPD: 10.0 s / WDIR: 320° / ATMP: 50.7° F / WTMP: 51.6° . Tide: 2.5' falling to 1'.

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