Magic Morning (Cowells)

Flexing my work schedule in anticipation of a late night, I was able to take the morning off and get in a more leisurely almost-dawn patrol. With a south swell in the water and the tide negative more than a foot, Cowells was the call. I met up with Luke and his newbie dad before paddling out and again in the water.

I brought Magic, my 8'3" hybrid longboard, and that was also a good call. The waves were waist- to chest-high with workable flat sections, and I needed the extra length and foam to get into and stay on them. It took no time for me to dial back into the longer board, but it sure doesn't turn like my 7'0" Emm. Despite the crowd and some lengthy lulls, I got some nice long rides and a big ol' heap of stoke!

Luke's dad was a little tippy. We've all been there.

Surfline: SSW(195-205) groundswell holds steady through the day, mixing with some minor NW energy. Most breaks get to waist high at best, as top Southern Hemi spots pull in some inconsistent waist-chest-shoulder high+ sets. Conditions are fairly clean, but a little drained as the tide heads for a negative low. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 3.3 ft at 14.8 s S 32 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 4.3 s W / WVHT: 3.3 ft / APD: 8.0 s / MWD: 188° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 3.3 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / WDIR: 150° / ATMP: 53.2° F / WTMP: 53.2°. Tide: -1' rising to less than zero.