I spent the weekend frustrated as the first south swell of the season rolled through while I was at work. Finally on Monday morning I was able to get to the coast for a surf. The wind, now light, had been doing unkind things to the sea, and the Jetty was a bit sloppy but producing rideable waist-high waves with occasional plus sets. On their drives down, Heather, J-Bird and Jacob checked Linda Mar (clean but almost flat with long lulls) and Montara (pretty sloppy), and we all decided the Jetty was our best bet. Gray skies drizzled cold steady rain as we changed by the side of the road.
 |
| J-Bird, Jacob and Heather waiting for waves |
My heart wanted to ride 7' Emm, but lost the battle to my head, which thought 8' Magic more suitable for conditions. It was probably the right call, at least in terms of wave count and ride length, but I blew a couple of steep drops I would've landed with the shorter board. My first wave, riding left at the main peak, was replete with backwash moguls that I successfully navigated. Fun! I got a bunch more rides, mostly rights, and forgot about work for a while, enjoying a morning on the ocean. After about an hour, someone turned on the fan, increasing the chop and slop. We had the spot to ourselves, and I was first in, last out, grateful for another day to surf.
Surfline: SW-SSW (195-215) groundswell slowly eases this morning, mixing with new mid period WNW (270-300+) swell. Better breaks offer generally knee-waist high surf, as top exposures pull in some sets up in the chest/shoulder high zone. Conditions are generally an issue across the region with light-moderate Southerly winds. Select spots that can block some South winds are a little cleaner. Tide: 3.5' falling near 2'. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 4.3 ft at 16.0 s WSW 33 / WIND WAVE: 1.6 ft at 4.0 s SW / WVHT: 4.6 ft / APD: 6.4 s / MWD: 250° / 08:00a PDT (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 16.0 s / WDIR: 190° / ATMP: 53.4° F / WTMP: 53.2° F / 07:50a PDT
No comments:
Post a Comment