|Photo of tsunami suckout at Miramontes Point, Half Moon Bay, by Luke Kilpatrick|
Today the tsunami warning was dropped to an advisory, and I was able to get in one last dawn patrol before the government messes with our minds by setting the time ahead an hour. I love to surf at first light. I love the stillness of the world on the cusp of waking, the solitude, the serenity. I'll miss it until sunrise catches up with the clock again. With a sizable swell in the water, the Jetty was the best choice, and I was the first surfer into the water. The paddle was tough, and by the time I made it almost outside, a shortboarder was already riding. I was nearly to the lineup when a wave started to break in front of me. I thought I could make it over the top but instead my board caught it and I was made to ride backwards all the way inside to waist-deep water. Crap! After a total of about 15 minutes of slogging, I got outside and took a breather. The waves were shifty and mixed up, waist- to head-high. I rode a few nice rights, including one with a long shoulder, and a few good lefts too, with some fun drops. Darren filmed me on a gutless little wave (had to pump it):
Then he joined me in the water as the crowd grew, and we saw Luke taking photos from the rocks. I couldn't catch a wave for the camera to save my life, except this:
Surfline: We've got a good sized mix of surf on tap this morning as WNW (270-305) groundswell slowly backs down, mixing with modest South (170-190) swell. Good exposures are in the head high to overhead+ range, with top spots running well overhead with a few lingering sets pushing double overhead. Winds are light/variable for fairly smooth surface conditions, although a lot of spots are still seeing some lump/jumble. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 9.2 ft at 13.8 s WNW 22 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 3.7 s WNW / WVHT: 9.2 ft / APD: 9.4 s / MWD: 282 (Met) WSPD: 0 kts / GST: 4 kts / WVHT: 9.2 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / ATMP: 51.4° F / WTMP: 52.9° F. Tide: 3' falling to 1'.