Third Derivative (38th Ave)

J-Bird picked up her new surfboard today from shaper Ward Coffey. It's the third derivative of Beth's 8'3" Petty hybrid longboard. The first two are my 8'3" Magic, an epoxy clone by Arrow, and Emm, a 7'0" also shaped by Ward. J-bird was so excited to try her new board that she dashed ahead of me and Luke to get in the water at 38th. By the time we paddled out to join her, she was already sporting a big grin from her first good ride. It was fun to share her new-board stoke.

I'd earned early release today by working late on Monday, but apparently a lot of other people had also found a way to be out surfing in the middle of a Friday afternoon. There was heavy competition for the shoulder-high set waves, and since I was on my 7'0", the longboarders had the advantage. So mostly I stayed on the inside and nibbled on smaller table scraps, although after the first few waves of a set thinned the lineup, I did manage to get a bite of the entree.

On the whole, a fine way to start a long weekend of surf!

Pelican in Flight

Sand Sculpture

Surfline: 2-3' occ. 4'. New WNW swell builds in this afternoon as old WNW swell fades. Better exposures are offering shoulder-head high+ surf, with some 2-3'+ overhead sets for top spots. Winds are out of the NNW for fairly clean conditions for most breaks through town. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 8.2 ft at 13.8 s W 09 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.7 s NW / WVHT: 8.2 ft / APD: 10.2 s / MWD: 278° (Met) WSPD: 6 kts / GST: 10 kts / WVHT: 8.2 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / WDIR: 320° / ATMP: 49.3° F / WTMP: 53.2°. Tide: 2' falling to 0'