Dunes was the place to be this morning, offering lots of fun waves up to shoulder high. We had a sizable crew there, including
J-Bird,
Jacob, Chris and a couple of their East Coast buddies, John and Nate;
Luke and
Beth; and
Heather and her friend Clayton. I got a bunch of nice long rides, mostly rights, working many of them through one or two reforms to the inside. Unfortunately Emm didn't have such a great time; she got bonked on the business side when Jacob wiped out in front of me, and has a several-inch-long dent on the bottom deck near the nose. If only his leash was a little shorter...
|
Heather and Clayton timing their entry |
After I rode a whoopin' good party wave with
J-Bird, I filmed from the beach while she went back out and caught one with Luke, this time in the front position.
Surfline: NW-WNW (285-315) fades through the day as small SSW (195-205) energy mixes in. The full tide keeps things pretty swamped initially, with mainly chest-head high waves showing at the exposed areas. Top spots see larger sets on occasion. Shape improves as the tide drops. Light wind now. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.2 ft at 10.0 s WNW 18 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 4.2 s WNW / WVHT: 6.6 ft / APD: 6.7 s / MWD: 303° (Met) WSPD: 10 kts / GST: 12 kts / WVHT: 6.6 ft / DPD: 10.0 s / WDIR: 310° / ATMP: 48.2° F / WTMP: 51.3° F. Tide: 3.5' falling to 1.5'.
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