18 February 2011

I Heart Dead Presidents (HMB Jetty)

Inexplicably, my company gave us a 4-day weekend for Presidents' Day. Hey, I ain't complainin', since I had the opportunity to surf at the right tide, which was smack in the middle of everyone else's workday. We've had a run of storms that made the ocean angry and unruly, but today the wind finally calmed although the sky still gently weeped.
From the side of the road, where I hid a little longer from the cold steady rain, the Jetty looked at least rideable. It turned out to be surprisingly fun once I was in the water. There were only two guys out, a shortboarder on the first peak and a longboarder a bit farther down the beach, so I staked out my own peak to the right of them. Not long past a very high tide, the waves were mushy, and shoulder high +/-.  From the start, it was a bit like an amusement park ride with no lines - paddle out through persistent but not too punishing lines of whitewater, catch a fast fun ride in almost to the beach, rinse, and repeat. I took the video during a short rest break before moving back inside to ride the waves again. I was only out for about an hour, the most my leaky Hotline wetsuit would allow, but my wave count was high. Stoked!

Surfline: WNW (260-320) swell fades through the day today as some small SSW-S (210-175) swells mix in. Conditions are trying to clean up, with much lighter winds out of the NE on tap this morning. Better breaks are good for chest-shoulder-head high+ surf, with top WNW breaks still offering some 2-3' overhead sets. A deep high tide (peaking at a nearly 7' high just after 10am) keeps most breaks on the jumbled/wonky side through the morning. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.9 ft at 12.1 s NW 15 / WIND WAVE: 2.3 ft at 3.6 s NNE / WVHT: 7.2 ft / APD: 7.4 s / MWD: 306° (Met) WSPD: 12 kts / GST: 16 kts / WVHT: 7.2 ft / DPD: 12.0 s / WDIR: 60° / ATMP: 46.8° F / WTMP: 52.0° F. Tide: 4.5' falling to 3'.

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