10 December 2010

Trusting the Sun to Rise (Sharks/Hook)

I got to the beach a bit too early this morning. It was still dark, and drizzling to boot, but at least it was warmer than some of my recent dawn sessions. There were already half a dozen cars in the lot and surfers heading for the stairs, with a few in the water. After a quick surf check, I changed into my wetsuit and reached the beach as twilight yielded to the day.
The swell was down from yesterday, with waves under head-high and below. I caught a short ride at the Hook but it was cluttering up with shortboarders so I made my way east to Sharks. Although there was a smaller pack there, I saw an empty peak farther over toward Privates and paddled on. Unfortunately that peak was juiceless and unsatisfying. With the clock ticking down toward my departure time for work, I bit the bullet and joined the lineup at Sharks. The mostly longboard crowd was friendly, with one guy even calling me into a wave. I got some nice rides, and one especially fine right that gave me good shoulder time. Woo hoo! I also got schooled in one of the ways my 7'0" is different - and harder - than my 8'3": I can't make a lazy late whitewater drop on my belly because it's very hard to hold the nose up out of the water. Trying it made for some exciting wipeouts, though.
Still mindful that part of the cliff fell onto the beach recently, I paddled back toward the stairs at the Hook. On the way I was treated to a close-up view of a couple of sea otters wrestling, and this time I managed to capture the wildlife show on video.

Surfline: W-WNW (260-300) groundswell fades through the day, with the most size holding on early. Dense fog is making it very difficult to get a good look at the size/conditions again this morning. Expect better breaks to be seeing waist-shoulder-head high surf, with top NW spots pulling in some occasional overhead+ sets. Winds are light/variable for mostly clean conditions. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 6.6 ft at 12.1 s WNW / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.7 s WSW / WVHT: 6.6 ft / APD: 8.1 s / MWD: 288°

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