Tread (HMB Jetty)

This morning I was kooking my pop-ups, and it took me little while to figure out why. It's sunny but cold outside, so I geared up for it, adding the hood to my 4/3 Rip Curl Insulator wetsuit (wise move), thicker gloves (should've checked for holes before throwing 'em in my box though), and 5 mil instead of 3 mil O'Neill booties. The 3 mils are actually made for women so they fit better, but I figured I could use the extra thickness of the men's. However, I didn't reckon on the different treads. While the 5 mils have a lot of ridges, the 3 mils are fairly smooth on the bottom and allow for quick semi-sliding adjustment of misplanted feet. Wherever my feet landed on the board this morning in the frictiony 5 mils, they weren't moving anywhere easily. Coupled with the greater sensitivity to bad popups of my new 7'0" as compared to my 8'3", that spelled a lot of crash and burns. Yet somehow, having sorted this out, I started to get more rides, taking greater care on my popups and trying hard to be less sloppy. Emm is whipping me into shape.

Surfline: NW-WNW (280-300) swell backs down through the day as small/continued SW (200-220) groundswell mixes in. Better breaks are good for chest-shoulder-head high surf, with top NW exposures pulling in some overhead sets. Conditions remain on the jumbled side this morning as we come off a deep high tide, but winds are light out of the ENE, so expect conditions to clean up as the tide backs out from a 6am high. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 7.9 ft at 11.4 s NW 94/ WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 3.7 s WNW / WVHT: 7.9 ft / APD: 8.9 s / MWD: 304°