23 December 2010

A Festivus Miracle (HMB Jetty)

After suffering through an interminable wave drought caused by a chain of storms that brought heavy rain and strong south winds to NorCal, I was hoping for a Festivus Miracle, but prepared to have plenty to say at the Airing of Grievances if the surf once again disappointed. Happily, a Miracle was delivered, in the form of empty, clean, waist- to shoulder-high+ waves at the Jetty.
A wave formed up behind me, but it was sectiony and I couldn't get a read on it: right or left? A goofy-footed fan of lefts, I adjusted my paddle angle for the latter, but as the wave lifted me I felt it wanted to go right instead. I popped up and with just a thought, body and board effortlessly changed tack and carved rightward down the near head-high face into one of the longer rides of the morning. Woo hoo!

I had to get to work and left the water before eating my complete fill of tasty waves, but one great ride plus a whole lot of other good ones left me satisfyingly stoked. Breath visible in the 40-degree air and wetsuit steaming in the cold sunshine, I changed with a broad smile on my face, wishing a Happy Festivus to a couple of surfers who pulled up for a wave check. No Grievances here!

Surfline: Mid period West-NW is easing through the day with small SW windswell mixing in. Look for waist-chest high surf at good spots with sets to shoulder-head high at standouts. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.2 ft at 9.1 s WNW 95 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.3 s NW / WVHT: 5.6 ft / APD: 7.1 s / MWD: 296°

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