The waves were a bit jumbled in between storms once again, but I got a couple good ones.
And there's no better place to watch the sun set than from a surfboard!
Surfline: Old, fading WNW groundswell offered head to double overead waves at well exposed breaks today. Buoy 46012: 9.5 ft @ 12.5 sec.
Nice. The banks at our break are all messed up, we are between seasons, so some big holes and some really shallow sections which equates to pretty crap surf. But you must be coming into your best season about now?? Or does the swell drop too much in summer?
ReplyDeletePS I noticed a SUP out there. The swell has been too messy for that here.
ReplyDeleteSome consider this the best season because the waves are bigger, but at times they're too big for me, and the winter storms keep the water dirty and often messy. Springtime can bring nearly constant onshore winds. Summer is smaller but the coastline is so varied, there's almost always a break working somewhere. And there are some points that groom the summer Southern Hemi swells into nice lefts, so I'm rather looking forward to that season (not to mention it's warmer!). Fall is hit or miss, but we rarely lack long for surfable waves.
ReplyDeleteYes, I have a similar dilemma about winter here because of the size of the swell that comes off the Southern Ocean. It can be too big for me. I overheard some young surfers from the east coast once saying that over there you can 'play' with a 4ft wave, but here you don't mess with it because it is so much heavier. Although summer is considered the worst time for surfing here (no swell and onshore), we were lucky this year because there were small breaks all the way around the bay. And you can sometimes pick which size you want. The hard-cores go round the bay or to another break (which I will blog about eventually) so less much competitive.
ReplyDelete