09 March 2010

2 Seconds (Indicators)

Crap on a cracker, it was crowded at Steamer Lane today! You would've thought it was a summer holiday weekend, instead of a cool though sunny weekday in early spring. The waves were nice, but it was frustrating mostly just watching people riding past. I could've used a little Magic, but due to the logistics of the day, I had my 5'8" Xanadu, which I haven't ridden in a while.

I had trouble getting the shortboard over the lip when an empty wave infrequently came my way. And when I did manage to catch a few, I experienced the usual initial crashes from switching to a now-unfamiliar and more skittish board. But finally, after an hour, I got a ride that lasted more than nanoseconds - at least 2 whole seconds - before the wave broke and tossed me off in the turbulence.

Funny how a couple seconds can make it all worthwhile.

Surfline: NW-WNW swell peaked this morning, and will slowly start to fade this afternoon, as some small SSW swell mixes in. Better breaks have chest-head high+ surf, with 2-3'+ overhead sets for the top NW exposures. Overall conditions are still looking really fun across the region. Incoming tide for the remainder of the afternoon is looking good. Buoy 46012: 9.2 ft @ 14.3 sec.

1 comment:

  1. It's been on-shore slop here for over a week and the wind swung round enough this morning for a thrash. Rips a bit much and closeouts on the head round the bay so I went back to the point, less swell but after a while, better shape. I agree, it's very annoying when you have tried to get out there on an uncrowded day and every other bugger has had the same idea!!