01 January 2010

Feliz Año Nuevo - Although I Didn't Surf There* (Three Mile)

Our new kitten woke me up when the new year was just four hours old, a bit earlier than necessary for the first dawn patrol of 2010. I left my new surfboard on the wall and put my fish in the car. With my iPod filled with new music, I drove dark and empty highways to Santa Cruz to meet my new surf buddy Rus, the DogMan. We watched the clouds turn pink at Steamer Lane as the sun rose on the new year, then made our way out of town to a new break for me, Three Mile. The tide was high and going higher, and a new swell was building in.

Remembering my new resolutions - no, let's call them aspirations - to be more like the new kitten (Take Risks. Be Fearless), I followed Rus on a long paddle out to the right point break, and tried to take off on some head-high waves.

On the first one, I went over the falls and whacked my upper arm hard into one of Nemo's fins. I'm grateful for the protection of 3mm of neoprene plus a rash guard since I wasn't cut, just majorly bruised. I tried for some more waves while Rus rode a handful, including one with a massive drop he happily landed. But despite the cold water, my arm started to protest being forced to do any work, and it was time to bag it for the long paddle back to the beach. My 2010 rides will come another day.   

*Title borrowed from the Stokemaster.

Surfline: Fresh new West-WNW swell move into California for the New Year. A small SW swell will also be running in the background. Wind NNE at 3 kts.


  1. Nice wave, looks fairly consistent.

  2. Just some friendly advice. I wouldn't openly name or show videos of lesser known spots like this. The regular crew can easily shut you out, bust your windows, etc., the next time you show up. Not saying it's right or wrong.

  3. Joe,

    I excuse you for your ignorance. Maybe you don't know that anonymous localism on the web is a tired practice that has been discussed ad nauseam in surfer magazines and blogs. The conclusion? Doesn't work. Waste of time. So next time go spend your 5 minutes doing something more constructive (Some "Friendly" advice). What I don't excuse you for is being threatening or your cowardly last sentence "Not saying it's right or wrong". If you're going to go out of your way to be a dick. At least take a stand.

  4. I follow the Surf Bloggers' Code: Conceal the identity of any break that is not well known or clearly visible from a main road. 3-Mile ain't one of them. When Googling gets you there with plenty of pix and info, it can't be called even semi-secret.

    And since you're unclear on it Joe, breaking someone's windows is always wrong.