09 January 2010

A Rant and A Rave (Cowells)

Rave first: My new 8'3" Arrow-Petty hybrid board continues to deliver lots of fun rides. Even in the crowd, I had a bunch of really good ones today, mostly lefts with the odd right. The best was a broken outside wave that I caught into a long and fast reform. It sent me flying down the line all the way to the beach, where I ditched before the shallows into surprisingly warm water and surfaced with a stoked smile and a "woo hoo!" Luke got some good rides too, like this one.

Now the rant: Santa Cruz Surf School needs to teach its instructors some surf manners. As I rode a left past a group of their orange-shirted newbies, I heard an instructor to my left calling "Paddle! Paddle!" before he and one of his students caught my wave, forcing me to turn straight toward the beach. Fortunately the newbie quickly fell and the instructor bailed with him so I was able continue my ride, but come on! It's right on the sign they passed on their way to the break: "First surfer on wave has right of way." I could forgive a beginner the mistake, but shame on the instructor. Santa Cruz Surfing School gets an "F" in basic surf etiquette.

Surfline: A strong storm has been whipping up a solid shot of W-WNW groundswell. Surf will be on the rise throughout California on Friday with good swell and conditions holding throughout the weekend. Wind NNW at 3 kts.


  1. Surf school fail. I love that the rules are posted at that break.

  2. Sometimes we are supposed to bear with the inevitable. But surfing pleasure should soon overcome all these things. Well, the fact that the ocean belongs to each and every surfer cannot be denied!