Rave first: My new 8'3" Arrow-Petty hybrid board continues to deliver lots of fun rides. Even in the crowd, I had a bunch of really good ones today, mostly lefts with the odd right. The best was a broken outside wave that I caught into a long and fast reform. It sent me flying down the line all the way to the beach, where I ditched before the shallows into surprisingly warm water and surfaced with a stoked smile and a "woo hoo!" Luke got some good rides too, like this one.
Surfline: A strong storm has been whipping up a solid shot of W-WNW groundswell. Surf will be on the rise throughout California on Friday with good swell and conditions holding throughout the weekend. Wind NNW at 3 kts.
Surf school fail. I love that the rules are posted at that break.
ReplyDeleteSometimes we are supposed to bear with the inevitable. But surfing pleasure should soon overcome all these things. Well, the fact that the ocean belongs to each and every surfer cannot be denied!
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