27 December 2009

Dinner and Dancing with Waves (Cowells)

I feel sorry for the folks who are still digging out from under the blizzard that hit the interior of the country over the holiday weekend. Here in NorCal, yesterday's rain lightened this morning and then yielded to a sunny warm afternoon.

Seeking stoke in a high wave count, I took the new Magic surfboard out at Cowells for the first time. Luke's right: the long rides at Cowells can help raise surfing skills to a higher level. When rides can be measured in fractions of a minute rather than seconds, you get to know the wave more intimately, like taking it out for dinner and dancing instead of just meeting for coffee. The wave is slowing down here, keep on it... reforming now, turn down the line again. And the dance went on and on, with more waves than I could count. Stoked!
To the kook - er, woman - who tried to drop in on my left when I was already well up and riding left: "Hey!... HEY!!!" perhaps did not adequately convey my message, so let me explain in more detail. When I first saw you, just a few feet away and paddling your Softop mightly, "Hey!" expressed "Excuse me, I'm sure you didn't see me - because you didn't look, though it's basic etiquette, not to mention common sense, to look for traffic before you cross the street or try to catch a wave - but here I am, and I'm riding this wave already, so kindly desist and wait for another one to come along." When you continued splashing, "HEY!!!" meant "Look out, you idiot! If you keep at it, you're going to run your rental plank right into my new custom surfboard. So BACK OFF!" Luckily you fell and I maneuvered around you and your loose board which missed mine by inches, but please, in the future, look both ways before taking off.


  1. Nice benign waves. The set up there means someone can grab a wave for a while, get off and someone else can get the reform.

  2. Yes, I was riding inside reforms. Got more waves that way.

  3. Cynthia, thanks for posting the video. Looks like a small day at Waikiki, except for the wetsuits and hoods.

  4. Have you tried your fish at Cowells? I wonder if the board can generate enough speed by pumping to stay on the wave?

  5. No, I'm pretty sure I couldn't get Nemo into waves like that - too moundy/mushy.