Neptune smiled upon me today. When L and I reached the Hook, it was small but glassy, with hardly anyone out. In contrast, the view toward Pleasure Point showed the usual crowding. I borrowed L's ugly beautiful 8' longboard again, which is similar enough to my own to feel pretty comfortable.I also took the opportunity to try my new Gath helmet, a long-delayed purchase I finally made after a woman died from hitting her head in a little fall on a ski slope. Knowing my history of hard snogging with my short boards, the first thing L asked when he saw it was "Did it come with a mouth guard?" Ha, very funny, but no.
We made an easy paddle out to our very own peak - a rare find in over-popular Santa Cruz. It was L's first time, and I think now he's got the wrong impression of the place. My long ride-less drought was soon broken. Stoked! I lost count of how many waves I caught, and had about four very nice rides, getting in some turns before the low-tide reef rose too close to the surface.
We stayed out until well into shark feeding time, watching the rippled silk water reflect blue sky and sunset pink clouds. Re-stoked, I raced the curves of 17 home in my Mini with a lingering smile.
Where is everybody?
L waiting for waves.
Alien surfer sighting.
L waiting for waves.
Alien surfer sighting.
Just sounds like a ridiculously chilled afternoon. I'm in my office in London reading this and thinking what I'd give to be in a peaceful santa cruz swell. Nice blog too - your writing is nice n laid back.
ReplyDeleteThanks, Ed. You should cross the pond for a visit sometime!
ReplyDeleteExcellent - you have got yourself a Gath helmet. Now you can mount your Hero cam on top and get some really cool footage. They are just amazing considering their size.
ReplyDeleteI don't know about the helmet mount. I have enough trouble operating the camera when I can look at it on my wrist. And how is that on duck-dives?
ReplyDeletei so badly want a gath helmet. those rock.
ReplyDeleteDon't they ship to Peru?
ReplyDelete