27 March 2009

The Hook, 26 March 2009

Neptune smiled upon me today. When L and I reached the Hook, it was small but glassy, with hardly anyone out. In contrast, the view toward Pleasure Point showed the usual crowding. I borrowed L's ugly beautiful 8' longboard again, which is similar enough to my own to feel pretty comfortable.

I also took the opportunity to try my new Gath helmet, a long-delayed purchase I finally made after a woman died from hitting her head in a little fall on a ski slope. Knowing my history of hard snogging with my short boards, the first thing L asked when he saw it was "Did it come with a mouth guard?" Ha, very funny, but no.

We made an easy paddle out to our very own peak - a rare find in over-popular Santa Cruz. It was L's first time, and I think now he's got the wrong impression of the place. My long ride-less drought was soon broken. Stoked! I lost count of how many waves I caught, and had about four very nice rides, getting in some turns before the low-tide reef rose too close to the surface.

We stayed out until well into shark feeding time, watching the rippled silk water reflect blue sky and sunset pink clouds. Re-stoked, I raced the curves of 17 home in my Mini with a lingering smile.

Where is everybody?L waiting for waves.Alien surfer sighting.


  1. Just sounds like a ridiculously chilled afternoon. I'm in my office in London reading this and thinking what I'd give to be in a peaceful santa cruz swell. Nice blog too - your writing is nice n laid back.

  2. Thanks, Ed. You should cross the pond for a visit sometime!

  3. Excellent - you have got yourself a Gath helmet. Now you can mount your Hero cam on top and get some really cool footage. They are just amazing considering their size.

  4. I don't know about the helmet mount. I have enough trouble operating the camera when I can look at it on my wrist. And how is that on duck-dives?

  5. i so badly want a gath helmet. those rock.

  6. Don't they ship to Peru?