30 April 2015

Kelly Says Surf Week

Eight days before we leave for over two waveless weeks in Greece, I decided to follow Kelly's advice about surfing all kinds of waves – including the crappy ones – to improve. Since I need to stock up on stoke before the trip, I'm surfing every day before the flight, no matter the conditions.

Day 1 – WVHT: 4.9 ft / DPD: 8.0 s / WTMP: 63° F @ Crystal Pier
from Surfline
Thankfully it wasn't too hard getting out through the windswell on my shortboard. There was a lot of side-shore current pushing everyone toward the pier. Brian and Eddie waved hello. Eventually I was in place to catch a nice shoulder-high left. It started to soften but I cut back to the peak and kept going on the shoulder with small turns all the way in to standing depth. Yeah! The current took me when I tried to paddle back out, pushing me from two blocks north of the pier all the way to it. I was forced to cross under the pier before the waves could smash me into barnacle-studded pilings. The current was stronger on the south side, and I gave up the attempt to get outside when I neared the lifeguard tower two more blocks south. All that in only 5-10 minutes. Still, my good wave made it worthwhile. Stoked!

Day 2 – WVHT: 2.6 ft / DPD: 8.0 s / WTMP: 64° F @ Crystal Pier
Surfline cam again
Before I left the house, I saw a couple of whales (or the same whale twice) on the Surfline cam. I've never been in the water with a whale and hope it happens someday, but today wasn't the day. Brian was out again along with another familiar dude. The current dropped a lot since yesterday and so did the swell. The waves were playful and plentiful if soft, and I got a bunch of long rides on my floaty 6'2". Yay!

Day 3 – WVHT: 3.6 ft / DPD: 8.0 s / WTMP: 64° F @ Crystal Pier
Yep, Surfline
Today was more of a Kelly-Says day. The waves were messier and more closed out than yesterday, which meant a few wipeouts and not as many fun rides. Still got one left that pretty sweet though.

Day 3 – And then Kelly Says Surf week was rendered moot. Our elderly cat was diagnosed with congestive heart failure and given 6 months to live at best, so our trip via London to Athens, Mykonos, Paros and Santorini is off. Greece will remain a two-dimensional image locked inside a computer screen.

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