31 January 2015

Better

It's been eleven months since I joined the San Diego Surf Ladies for a coaching session with Dan Mori of Fulcrum Surf. Since the tide was high and the waves were only 2-4 feet, I was riding Rocket, my 6'2" Ward Coffey.
Dan only commented on two of my waves, first to say that I should drive forward harder to keep going on a mushy wave. "Give it 50% more and you'll stay with it." And second that "You're doing a lot better. Really getting it. You looked good on that wave! Keep it up."
Yeah!

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