Zoom Zoom

I don't blog all of my surf sessions, but indeed my last post was my last session - ten days ago. My throat was scratchy the same afternoon and I'd lost my voice by the next morning, when we flew to Sacramento to pick up my new Mazda 3. I managed to stay on top of the nasty virus for the first part of our road trip, but by the time we reached San Diego I was laid low, and have only just today crawled out from under my blankets with enough energy for an easy surf in small waves.

The new surfmobile, a 2015 Mazda 3 s Touring, manual of course. Scarce in Soul Red.

My 6'2" fits easily inside

There was only one guy out a Sewers and no one at Hennemans. It looked lully and small, which well suited my low energy level. Plus I was a bit concerned that my balance might be mucked up by my still-blocked ear, which is causing a bit of dizziness, so a solo session seemed ideal.

No sooner had I reached the empty lineup at Hennemans then I glanced right and saw a longboarder just pulling up. Where the heck did he come from?! Darn. Two more dudes joined us shortly, ruining my alone time before it began. Yet I still found several waves that yielded long rides and got me smiling. The water was glassy and clearer than I've ever seen it there. During the lulls, I watched the reef below, hoping in vain for the orange flash of a garibaldi.

With my energy flagging, I waited a long time for a wave in, backing off several times for traffic, and missing a number of waves that mushed into backwash on the fast-rising king tide. Finally I found my ride and took it close to shore. Although I'd had no trouble surfing, I felt very off-balance walking up the cobblestones to the cliff path. Tomorrow is forecast to bring in sizable swell, and I hope I'll be ready.