16 November 2014

What the Sea Gives Me

Last night I saw What the Sea Gives Me at Green Flash Brewery with a few friends.
What the sea gives me is stoke, and hope, and fear, and joy - and so much more. It's my oxygen, and I need to breathe it often. One interviewee in the film quoted Doc Paskowitz:
I entered the water that day wanting to blow my brains out. I came out a warrior. Surfing can make that change happen inside a man.
...or a woman. I've had no more suicidal thoughts since I started surfing, because if I died, I would never ride another wave. And I always want to ride another wave.
This morning the sea gave me several long rides before breakfast. And it was good.

1 comment:

  1. Thought you might want to check out our webpage and submit an inspiring surf story of your own for inclusion in our new book; http://www.legacyofstoke.com/