10 November 2014

Blacks Birthday

The surf has been small, but I was hopeful to find some birthday waves at the local swell magnet. Although Blacks didn't look like this:
it thankfully didn't look like this either:
The waves were chest and occasionally shoulder high, a bit broken up, with light texture and light crowd. I scored several nice ones, including a left that took me pleasantly by surprise when, in the midst of a late drop, I somehow landed my feet solidly on the board rode it out.

Blacks is such a lovely spot to surf, facing the towering cliffs of Torrey Pines, with a view of Scripps pier and La Jolla beyond to the south and the coastline bending to Del Mar northward. Wildlife abounded this morning. There were birds of all sorts, including a tiny duckling-like creature that floated near. Large fish arced above the water, taking a fast line away from an unseen predator at a thankful distance.

The increasing breeze grew chilly but I'd sufficiently satisfied my thirst for surf. With Rocket under my arm and a smile on my face, I started up the long and steep private road from the beach, past a woman walking her dogs off-leash.
"Did you have fun?"
"Now you have to keep that with you all day."
That's always good advice about stoke.

One of my best birthday gifts (besides the sweet waves) was a blank book with this quote on the cover:

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