Summer's Not Over

Another southwest groundswell began filling in overnight. I'm fighting off a virus that's made my throat so sore I'm usually talking in whispers, but I wanted some of those waves at my neighborhood reef break. Although Hairmos actually looked better than Hennemans, I didn't have the energy to paddle all the way over there.

The water has warmed up again and my 3/2 full suit was too much, even with a light breeze. Until another dude came out to my peak, I was alone, shifting about to find position for the shifty, lully waves. I scored some soft chest-high lefts and rights that felt as sluggish as me.

The swell is still building. Tomorrow I expect the waves and I will be more energetic, and I'm looking forward to one more session in my 2mil short jane.