13 October 2014

Feeling Alive

This morning's session in 6-8 foot surf on a solid northwest swell had me feeling by turns annoyed (at the size of the crowd), happy (catching some smaller waves on the inside), scared (drilled deep into darkness by a set wave that broke in front of me), seriously stoked (riding a long 7-foot left with room on the face for more maneuvers than I could think of), lucky (pushed up the cobblestones by shorebreak but escaping unscathed), and surprised (that I'd stayed out well over two hours). Woot!

No comments:

Post a Comment