15 October 2014

On Fire and On Camera

Yesterday's session was one of my best ever. I was in sync with the sea and surfing well, from the moment I paddled out and a SUPer who'd just ended his ride in the water said "Hi." No dude, I'm not looking at you; I'm looking at that wave that's swinging right to me, and with a few strokes, I was in and riding. My hair didn't even get wet until I'd surfed four fine lefts with lots of turns. The waves were smaller than Monday, only about shoulder high, but so much fun!

After countless rides, I dashed up the cobblestone beach ahead of the shorepound and found a photographer waiting. Marc Eyherabide said he'd taken some shots of me. I was almost afraid to look lest they show I was only ripping in my mind and not in reality, but they're not half bad.

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