Yesterday I saw a little tourist boy dragging a too-heavy-for-him 8-foot Wavestorm into the sea at low tide. Until the water got too deep, he walked on his tip-toes to avoid putting his feet fully into the ocean. I wanted to do the same this morning. Damn, that water is cold! I may not make it through the season barefoot after all.
I checked the pier first but it looked like a get-lucky sort of day - that is, you'd have to get lucky enough to be in the right place to catch even a brief shoulder amidst the shifty and not-small closeouts. And getting through the onslaught of windswell whitewater looked like a lot of work for little potential gain. Even my sponger friend David looked to be having a bit of trouble getting back out.
Opting for smaller closeouts, I joined the growing crowd at Tourmo, where there were occasionally fun waves to be had. Unfortunately I think I was on the wrong board for them, even on a fast-falling tide. Janitors were riding waves that hadn't even thought about breaking yet, and many of the inside waves would offer promise only to back off. I paddled around a lot looking for an unoccupied and rideable peak. Still, I made some fun drops on my shortboard when I happened to get lucky.
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