Apply Foam to Injury

Just in time for a lovely swell, I tweaked my back again, while sponging (don't tell anyone!) with my husband a couple days ago. Fortunately it was after I had a fun surf at Sunset Cliffs. The waves have continued good there, my friends tell me, but I'm not up to the long paddle.

Instead, I darted over to Tourmaline for an easy session, having to cut even it short when my bloody back started hurting again. Fortunately, that was after I'd ridden a bunch of fun rights with plenty of open face for turns. One ride was particularly long, all the way to the beach.

It certainly seems that the best advice for surfing after (or with) an injury is to apply foam: move up to a bigger, floatier board. (Thanks, Ashley!) I'm really getting my groove back riding the 6'2" Ward Coffey shaped for me in Santa Cruz. And I think I've learned a few things about turns by riding my shorter boards and perhaps also from skating; they feel easier and more natural now. At any rate, I had a blast on Rocket this morning. Stoked!