25 December 2012

Christmas Waves (Dunes/HMB Jetty)

Santa brought me a San Diego surf map and fun Christmas waves wrapped in sea foam and decorated with raindrops.
Marcia and her Christmas present
Marcia and Ian looking for waves
After seeing that there was not much going on at the Jetty, I met Marcia and Ian at Dunes. Ian had forgotten to load his surfboard but luckily Marcia had an extra one. The waves looked better from the beach - but at least we had it all to ourselves. I'd brought Nemo, not the best board choice as it turned out, so didn't bother to paddle to the outside where head-high+ waves were pitching mostly close-outs. Instead I sat inside and tried for mushy reforms that were surprisingly elusive. At last I caught the remains of an outside bomb that gave me a great ride. I hooted when I made the backside drop and swished into turns on the face as it reformed again and took me close to the beach.
In the shallows, threatening near head-high shore pound blocked my path back out. I decided to say goodbye to Dunes and return to the Jetty, which I expected would have gotten better on the falling tide. Marcia and Ian soon joined me.

There was a little crowd out the at the Jetty, from no one when I'd first checked it, but the waves had indeed improved although they were rather mixed up. We all got some fun rides there, though none of mine matched the hard-earned gem at Dunes. Stoked!
Surfline: Winds are light between storms this morning, but conditions remain a little jumbled up. Swell-wise we have fading/leftover WNW-NW swell and some modest/building new SW (200-210) groundswell on offer. Better exposed breaks are running shoulder to head high+, with some larger sets for top exposed spots running overhead+. Less tide helps. Buoy 46012: (Wave) SWELL: 5.6 ft at 10.8 s W 115 / WIND WAVE: 2.0 ft at 3.2 s SE 114 / WVHT: 5.9 ft / APD: 7.2 s / MWD: 273° (Met) WSPD: 19 kn / GST: 23 kn / WVHT: 5.9 ft / DPD: 11.0 s / WDIR: 150° / ATMP: 53° F / WTMP: 55° F. Tide: 4' falling to 2'.

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