03 September 2012

Foggy Fun (HMB Jetty)

The south swell has faded down to "fun-size", under head-high. When I paddled out on the north end of the lineup, I counted 15 guys (all guys again), but two of them were Manabu and Steve and the vibe was more friendly than Saturday.
I was rockin' on Rocket today, with a few standout rides. I wish I could've surfed this swell in reverse; today first, then Saturday's more intimidating conditions.
Foggy glass
I split the peak on a bouncy shoulder-high left with Manabu before backwash from the rising tide made the left unworkable and we moved southward. There I got a wild ride on a longer right, surprised and stoked that I made the tricky drop and rode it out over moguls almost to the riprap wall.
Steve and Manabu
Manabu and then Steve caught waves in, and a few minutes later Heather and Perrin joined me in the water. After a short chat, I found one more nice right to the beach and left smiling. Stoked!
Heather and Perrin
Surfline: 2-3 ft [to 4'] SSW Southern Hemi groundswell continues along with NW windswell. Dense fog has settled in along the coast making it impossible to see the surf this morning. Expect better exposed breaks to see waist-shoulder high waves, with larger sets for top spots. Onshore Westerly wind early and thick fog along the coast. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 4.6 ft at 14.8 s SW 70 / WIND WAVE: 1.3 ft at 3.7 s WNW / WVHT: 4.6 ft / APD: 6.2 s / MWD: 222° (Met) WSPD: 6 kn / GST: 8 kn / WVHT: 4.6 ft / DPD: 15.0 s / ATMP: 52° F / WTMP: 56° F. Tide: 2.5' rising to 4'.


  1. Fun little waves this morning. Glad to see you ripping out there!

    Thanks for the photo!

    1. Ha, "ripping" - surely you jest ;)

      Nice to surf with you!

  2. Evening Cynthia, my name's Ryan and I'd like to use one of these pics as an album cover for a free live EP my band is releasing online. If you're interested in this at all, please drop me a note at ryantrask at gmail dot com. Thank you so much! R