30 September 2012

Beautiful Bookends (HMB Jetty)

When I got to the Jetty not too early this morning, there were already 20 surfers on the main peak (swelling to 30 by the time I left), with good reason.
I didn't want to fight for waves, so chose the less-popular and slightly smaller second peak instead. After a well-timed dry-hair paddle out, I chatted with one of the two guys nearby for a couple minutes before a head-high left swung to me and I got my wave of the day. Woot! Back in the lineup, the same guy said "That was a nice one!" Grinning, I replied that it was a great way to start the session. 
My last wave was a head-high right that was almost as good as that first left, and I took it all the way to the shallows. In between those beautiful bookends were mostly closeouts or short sections with a few memorable moments. On a shoulder-high left, I dragged my hand in the whitewater to hold the frontside turn down the line. And I was stoked to land a 4' drop on a closeout, coming down with the lip and riding it out.
I wanted to give Rocket a great big hug when we left the water and was smiling from ear to ear. Woo hoo!

Surfline: WNW (295-310) groundswell continues to move in, blending with fun-sized SW (200-220) Southern Hemi swell. Good exposures run head high+ to several feet overhead, while standout breaks see larger sets as we move through the day and the WNW'er fills in further. Buoy 46026: (Wave) SWELL: 6.9 ft at 13.8 s W 82 / WIND WAVE: 1.0 ft at 4.0 s WNW / WVHT: 6.9 ft / APD: 9.5 s / MWD: 278°  (Met) WSPD: 2 kn / GST: 4 kn / WVHT: 6.9 ft / DPD: 14.0 s / ATMP: 49° F / WTMP: 54° F. Tide: 4' rising to 5'.


  1. Love the video's, they're awesome!

    1. Thanks! I was trying out my new (refurbished) surf cam, a Panasonic Lumix TS4, on the second one.