07 April 2010

Worth Waiting For (HMB Jetty)

When you're driving to a break, it's never a good sign to see people kitesurfing in the same bay you plan to surf. Although it was breezy at the Jetty, the sideshore wasn't wrecking the the chest- to head-high waves. Some shoulders peaking between closeouts offered hope. But forty minutes into my surf session, I'd caught zip, and was starting to console myself with the usual platitudes: "at least I got wet," "it's a beautiful day, just nice to be out here," etc. Then I caught a great right, followed in quick succession by two more fine rides. Interestingly, Luke had almost the opposite experience on his shortboard. A few more waves later, I rode one in with a big stoke smile.

Surfline: NW-WNW swell easing further today with small S and SW swells in the background. Good exposed breaks are in the chest-head high range while standouts are up to 2-3' overhead on sets. Buoy 46012: 7.5 ft @ 12.5 sec


  1. I am so glad it wokred out for you today!

  2. Yeah, all my good waves were in the first 20 minutes then I struggled to find any decent ones. Got some really good crazy belly rides though :)

  3. Optimism paid off! Hope you get some good waves today, Manabu.

    Sorry the vid didn't come out, Luke. I'll get you riding your potato chip another time.