01 April 2010

Surfing Santa Cruz in a Bikini (38th Ave)

Due to a downwelling, the ocean was really warm today, almost tropical. Since the afternoon was also sunny and hot, I was able to lose all the rubber and try out my Ola Chica "wipeout-proof" bikini. Though I didn't really give it a good test, since I never wiped out, not even once! Conditions were epic on the Eastside, perfect shoulder- to head-high waves that peeled forever, gently groomed by light offshores scented with spring flowers. And I don't know where everyone else was, but it was just a few friends and me in the water, trading awesome rides. When Luke and I arrived, Manabu had just finished warming up the waves at the Hook, and we had 38th Ave to ourselves until Steve drifted down from Pleasure Point. It must've been an unusual swell angle that made my waves all break left, and I got one amazing ride after another. Stoked!

The great surf session took my mind off the unfortunate decision of California to fill its coffers by taxing surfers with a permit fee, $100-500 per year per surfboard, with longer boards costing more. Guess I'll be shortboarding from now on.

Surfline: Our WNW-NW wind/groundswell mix continues to slowly fade this afternoon as trace Southern Hemi energy mixes in. Onshore flow has a slight texture to the surf at the more open exposures. Better breaks are running in the chest-shoulder-head high+ zone, with solid 2-3'+ overhead sets for standout spots. All in all it's looking fun across the region this afternoon. Buoy 46012: 13.1 ft @ 14.3 sec.


  1. Wow, thought I was tough. I got nothing on the norcal girl ;)

  2. Taxes?? What for? Do they have a wave machine there?

  3. Y'all do have April Fool's Day in Australia, right? ;-)

  4. Yeah, but we had it the day before!! Not fair :)