Eastside Santa Cruz was a lot more crowded than Thursday, but I managed to claim some fun rides from the pack, although no super long ones like the last time. I had a spectacular wipeout on a head-high wave, when I didn't turn my board enough onto the shoulder and the wave pitched just as I started the drop. The nose tripped on the bottom of the wave and flipped me into the air, flinging me at the water so hard my check stung and I thought for a moment I might have lost a contact lens. It's interesting - and good - that I'm not so fearful of head-high waves as I used to be; the Magic board and my (somewhat) improved skills have given me more confidence. Although it seems it's still best that I don't know I'm taking off on a head-high wave.
Surfline: A new/building NW groundswell on tap today with plenty of well overhead waves across the region for the exposed locations. Wind remains mostly light with semi-clean conditions. Buoy 46012: 16.7 ft @ 16.7 sec.
I can't believe the number of folks that are out there, well done getting a wave at all! It has been somewhat similar here this weekend but only temporary thank goodness!
ReplyDeleteI really relate to that last comment! I have to admit, there are times when a biggish (for me that is head+) set comes through and as I pivot my board around really quickly I say to myself: 'well my best chance is to just take this wave, and make it!'
ReplyDeleteIt's definitely best not to think about it too much.