01 November 2009

Surfing from Fog into Sunshine (HMB Jetty)

From the early reports, it didn't look like the swell had come up as much as forecast, so I brought my longboard to the Jetty and then wished I had my fish. Far from being tiny, the waves were shoulder-high+ with some punchy steep ones on the sets. Luckily Luke had Beth's Petty surfboard available, and he didn't have to twist my arm to take it instead of Big Blue. On the high high tide, the waves may have been mostly too mushy for the fish anyway. I caught one quite good one and got a couple more decent rides on Beth's purple board, and had a decidedly easier time getting it to the outside than if I'd been on the longboard. We started out surfing in the fog, but within an hour the day was sparkling and sunny. Manabu joined us in the c-c-cold water, and I'm not certain, but I think the video above shows the Stokemaster himself riding the second wave.

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