wave journal of a norcal surfer girl

"Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you've done it." -Paul Strauch, Leonard Lueras' Surfing Hawaii

14 November 2009

On the Drawing Board: My New Surfboard

Many thanks to Tracey for creating this cool design!

Labels: Tips and Gear

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1 comments:

michelleFRANTOMNovember 14, 2009
Cute!
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About the Surfista

Cynthia: Home break: Jetty in Half Moon Bay, CA. Current quiver: "Rocket" 6'2" and "Emm" 7'0" by Ward Coffey, "Magic" 8'3" Petty clone by Arrow, "Nemo" 5'4" 9:Fish Clownfish. First time surfing: Summer 2003, Cocoa Beach, FL. Other places surfed: Washington, Hawaii, SoCal, Costa Rica, Australia, New Zealand, Nicaragua.

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42

Dawn at the beach. Air almost 50 degrees, water slightly warmer. Full moon hanging over the ocean, sun rising from the hills. Swell gently lifting my surfboard a little closer to the sky as it passes by on its way to touch the beach. Icy water trickling down the front of my wetsuit. Feet going numb from the cold despite neoprene booties and thermal socks. Two dolphins in the lineup chase silver fish, who leap into the air in a swirling mass, sparkling in the first rays of the sun. Then "pwwwfff!" as another dolphin surfaces and exhales not a dozen feet from me, before gracefully sliding back under the water. What a great way to start the day!

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