30 August 2009

Half Moon Bay @ Jetty, 30 August 2009

Another session at the Jetty bookended my weekend. It pays to get up early; I had the break all to myself for about 15 minutes. It was interesting to observe the few people who checked it while I was changing into my wetsuit. One guy watched the waves for less than 30 seconds before heading back to his car. A woman looked a little longer before driving away, but she was back again after I surfed, so I guess it was slim pickings elsewhere. Granted, there wasn't a lot to work with at the Jetty, only 2-4' and closing out a fair bit with the occasional shoulder, but I didn't have time to drive around this morning since I need to get some stuff (besides surfing) done today. And in my first 15 minutes alone, I caught a couple of nanorides on Nemo. Then two longboarders paddled out, and one immediately parked himself deeper than me and took over the peak. He obviously hadn't read SurfingStoke's Rules of Etiquette. I wasn't able to find a sweet spot again, and cumulative fatigue from 3 days of surfing plus a chill from the suddenly colder ocean pushed me back to the beach after about an hour. But the weekend has left me seawaterlogged, with achy paddling muscles and a mostly contented feeling. Aaahh.

Kelly Ave Surf Check

Sorry about the jiggling; apparently image stabilization doesn't work for walking or shivering.

1 comment:

  1. I love that contented/relaxed feeling your body gets when you surfed so much that you just couldn't surf anymore. (Unless a swell comes, of course)