26 January 2007

Things I Learned at Surf Camp

  1. Forget turtle-rolling. The best way to get through whitewater on a longboard is to paddle hard almost into it, then push up onto your hands and knees so the water passes freely between you and the board.
  2. Turn down the face of the wave as soon as you pop up, but don't ride all the way to the bottom because you'll slow down too much. Instead, make small turns up and down the face to stay near the middle of it.
  3. Turn your head and point your arms in the direction you want to go, because that will turn the rest of your body and help to shift your weight to make the turn.
  4. To end a ride, turn all the way up the face so you go over the top and out the backside, or, if it's too late because the wave's already closed out, dive off the board over the whitewater to the back. Looks better than just falling off...

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