Another beautiful dawn in paradise, riding a more manageable 9'2".
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Had a private lesson this time because the only other woman at the surf camp decided to sleep in instead of surf. Not that she would've surfed with me anyway; perhaps she hates
vegans, or she's one of the few remaining Bush supporters and took immediate offense to the
American Traveler International Apology T-shirt I wore on the flight from San Francisco. Also had a late morning sesh on an 8'6" (no pix), but the tide was getting low with a long wait between sets.
~ ~ ~
Best line overheard at Venus Surf Adventures Surf camp owner, to a beginner who dropped in on my wave:
"
I would never do that, because
I'm a nice person."
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